1
The
Traditional Cuisine
A plate of “tocană” (ground maize boiled in milk) with
sheep cheese,
cream and fried bacon scraps, a helping of rolls of soured cabbage
stuffed with
minced pork and coarsely ground maize, a slice of homemade bread baked
in the
hearth, a glass of “horincă” (plum brandy), and as last course: a
crinkled pie
or a pound caked with nuts – these would be some of the specialities of
the
traditional cuisine in Maramures.
The art of local gastronomy does not excel in delicacies
and
sophisticated combinations of foodstuffs and spices (like other Latin
cuisines
– French or Italian). It is rather sober and extremely ecological,
alike the
agriculture, cattle breeding and fruit growing that are the principal
sources
of food.
The culinary tradition relies mainly upon the mobile
pastoral dairy the shepherds install in the
mountains during the summer, the period when they
graze their sheep. In these “miniature” dairy factories, the principal
actor is
the shepherd in charge of the sheepfold who is also responsible for the
processing of the dairy products. The owners of the sheep used to climb
to the
sheepfold taking turns in order to collect their share of the product
which had
been established at the milk measuring. The ewe’s milk is used to
prepare milk
curds, cottage cheese, pot cheese, and a mixture of whey with the
sediments
from the boiled curds. The young cheese brought from the sheepfold is
aged in
the homestead.
As the meteorological and climacteric conditions and the
quality of
the soil had not favour the cultivation of wheat in this region covered
mostly
by hills, agriculture was based mainly on the growing of
maize. Beginning with the 17th century, maize flour
used to be “the principal element of nutrition for the rural
population”. The maize was used in
the preparation of the
“mămăligă” (maize flour boiled in salted water), and for the baking of
the daily bread. This is why, as I. Bârlea
stated it (1924), “bread made of
wheat
flour is eaten only on important holidays; otherwise people eat only
maize
bread”. White flour was used for the preparation of the communion
bread and of the
ritual knotted bread for the
important holidays.
But for the inhabitants of Maramures, according to their
ancient
customs, the meal is rather a cultural
act with social significances.
It represents actually an integration
rite.
Hospitable and filled with empathy, the peasants of
Maramures invite
the stranger in their house animated by the thought that “having
travelled so
much, the visitor must be hungry”, but this is done also in order to
facilitate
a cultural interaction. Thus, the
peasants value the most efficient way of having a dialogue,
whether they do or do not speak the same language as
their interlocutor. The intercultural
dialogue by means of sharing the food is achieved on a non-verbal
level,
the words being superfluous. Each
gesture and impression of the guest is watched attentively and decoded
according to the behavioural acquisitions of the individual and the
local customs.
In order to be shown respect, the guest is given “the
place of
honour” at the table, as it happens with the elders or with persons of
authority (priests or teachers). The host, following the unwritten law
of
hospitality, has the obligation to be the first who tastes the drink,
showing by
this that it is clean and deserves to be tasted, and the guests drink
only
afterwards.
Another local custom demands that the guest should eat
everything
offered by the host. The rule applies also to drinks.
To conclude, the cuisine of Maramures can accede to the
status of a
brand if the dishes will be promoted in the rural guesthouses from the
region
and the products will be also included in the menus of the great
restaurants.
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