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The
Grand Canyon
Immense gorge cut by the Colorado River into
the high
plateaus of northwestern Arizona, U.S., noted for its fantastic shapes
and
coloration.
The broad, intricately sculptured chasm of the Grand Canyon contains
between
its outer walls a multitude of imposing peaks, buttes, canyons, and
ravines. It
ranges in width from about 0.1 to 18 miles (0.2 to 29 km) and extends
in a
winding course from the mouth of the Paria River, near the northern
boundary of
Arizona, to Grand Wash Cliffs, near the Nevada line, a distance of
about 277
miles (446 km). The canyon includes many tributary side canyons and
surrounding
plateaus. The deepest and most impressively beautiful section, 56 miles
(90 km)
long, is within Grand Canyon National Park, which encompasses the
river's
length from Lake Powell to Lake Mead. In its general colour, the canyon
is red,
but each stratum or group of strata has a distinctive hue--buff and
gray,
delicate green and pink, and, in its depths, brown, slate-gray, and
violet. At
8,200 feet (2,500 m) above sea level, the North Rim is 1,200 feet (350
m)
higher than the South Rim.
The first sighting of the Grand Canyon by a
European
is credited to the Francisco Coronado expedition of 1540 and subsequent
discovery to two Spanish priests, Francisco Garcés and Silvestre Vélez
de
Escalante, in 1776. In the early 1800s trappers examined it, and sundry
government expeditions exploring and mapping the West began to record
information about the canyon. By the 1870s, following the exploration
of John Wesley
Powell and others, extensive reports on the geography, geology, botany,
and
ethnology of the area were being published.
Grand Canyon National Park, now containing
1,904
square miles (4,931 square km), was created in 1919. Its area was
greatly
enlarged in 1975 by the addition of the former Grand Canyon National
Monument
and Marble Canyon National Monument and by portions of Glen Canyon
National
Recreation Area, as well as other adjoining lands. The North and South
rims are
connected by a 215-mile- (346-kilometre-) long paved road and by a
transcanyon
trail. Scenic drives and trails lead to all important features.
Mule-pack trips
down the canyon and rides down the river in rafts and power-driven
craft are
intensively sought-after ways of viewing and experiencing the vast
beauty of
the canyon. Many pueblo and cliff-dweller ruins, with accompanying
artifacts,
indicate prehistoric occupation. There are five Indian tribes living on
nearby
reservations.
Geologic history
Although its awesome grandeur and beauty are the major attractions of
the Grand
Canyon, perhaps its most vital and valuable aspect lies in the time
scale of
Earth history that is revealed in the exposed rocks of the canyon
walls. No
other place on Earth compares with the Grand Canyon for its extensive
and
profound record of geologic events. The canyon's record, however, is
far from
continuous and complete. There are immense time gaps; many millions of
years
are unaccounted for by gaps in the strata in which either vast
quantities of
Earth materials were removed by erosion or there was little or no
deposition of
Earth materials. Thus rock formations of vastly different ages are
separated
only by a thin, distinct surface that reveals the vast unconformity in
time.
Briefly summarized, the geologic history of
the canyon
strata is as follows. The crystallized, twisted, and contorted
unstratified
rocks of the inner gorge at the bottom of the canyon are granite and
schist
about two billion years old. Overlying these very ancient rocks is a
layer of limestones,
sandstones, and shales that are more than 500 million years old. On top
of
these are rock strata composed of more limestones, freshwater shales,
and
cemented sandstones that form much of the canyon's walls and represent
a
depositional period stretching over 300 million years. Overlying these
canyon
rocks is a thick sequence of Mesozoic Era rocks (245 to 66.4 million
years old)
that form precipitous butte remnants and the vermilion, white, and pink
cliff
terraces of southern Utah but which have been entirely eroded away in
the area
of the Grand Canyon proper. Of relatively recent origin are overlying
sheets of
black lava and volcanic cones that occur a few miles southeast of the
canyon
and in the western Grand Canyon proper, some estimated to have been
active
within the past 1,000 years.
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The cutting of the mile-deep Grand Canyon by
the
Colorado River is an event of relatively recent geologic history that
began not
more than six million years ago, when the river began following its
present
course. The Colorado River's rapid velocity and large volume and the
great
amounts of mud, sand, and gravel it carries swiftly downstream account
for the
incredible cutting capacity of the river. Prior to the building of the
Glen
Canyon Dam, the sediments carried by the Colorado River weremeasured at
an
average of 500,000 tons per day. Conditions favourable to vigorous
erosion were
brought about by the uplift of the region, which steepened the river's
path and
allowed deep entrenchment. The depth of the Grand Canyon is due to the
cutting
action of the river, but its great width is explained by rain, wind,
temperature, and chemical erosion, helped by the rapid wear of soft
rocks, all
of which steadily widened it. Amazingly, the canyon was cut by a
reverse
process, for the river remained in place and cut through the rocks as
the land
moved slowly upward against it. Only thus can be explained the canyon's
east-to-west course across a south-facing slope and the presence of
plateaus
that stand across the river's course without having deflected it.
The most significant aspect of the
environment that is
responsible for the canyon is frequently overlooked or not recognized.
Were it
not for the arid climate in the surrounding area, there would be no
Grand
Canyon. Slope wash from rainfall would have removed the canyon walls,
the
stairstep topography would long ago have been excavated, the
distinctive
sculpturing and the multicoloured rock structures could not exist, the
Painted
Desert would be gone, and the picturesque Monument Valley would have
only a few
rounded hillocks.
Biological past and present
Plant and animal fossils are not abundant in the Grand Canyon's
sedimentary
rocks and are confined mostly to primitive algae and mollusks, corals,
trilobites, and other invertebrates. Animal life in the Grand Canyon
area today
is varied and abundant, however. The common animals are the many
varieties of
squirrels, coyotes, foxes, deer, badgers, bobcats, rabbits, chipmunks,
and
kangaroo rats. Plant life is also varied. In the bottom of the canyons
are
willows and cottonwoods, which require abundant water during the
growing
season. At the other end of the moisture scale are drought-resistant
plants
such as the yucca, agave, and numerous species of cactus.
On the canyon rims, north and south, there
is a wide
assortment of plant life. Typical of the South Rim is a well-developed
ponderosa pine forest, with scattered stands of pinon pine and juniper.
Bush
vegetation consists mainly of scrub oak, mountain mahogany, and large
sagebrush. On the North Rim are magnificent forest communities of
ponderosa
pine, white and Douglas fir, blue spruce, and aspen. Under less optimum
conditions the plant life reverts to the desert varieties.
Grand Canyon Series
Major division of rocks in northern Arizona dating from Precambrian
time (about
3.8 billion to 540 million years ago). The rocks of the Grand Canyon
Series
consist of about 3,400 m (about 10,600 feet) of quartz sandstones,
shales, and
thick sequences of carbonate rocks. Spectacular exposures of these
rocks occur
in the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River in northwestern Arizona,
where they
overlie the strongly deformed and contorted Vishnu Schist, the
angularity of
which stands in bold contrast to the almost horizontal bedding of the
Grand
Canyon Series. The Grand Canyon Series actually dips slightly eastward
and is
separated from the overlying Cambrian sandstones by a major erosion
surface
unconformity. A conglomerate was deposited on the eroded surface of the
Vishnu
Schist. Limestones, shales, and sandstones occur over the conglomerate
and are
thought to represent shallow water deposits. The area of deposition was
probably a large deltaic region that was slowly subsiding, allowing
great
thicknesses of sediment to accumulate near sea level . The presence of
Precambrian organisms is indicated by calcareous algaelike structures
in the
carbonate rocks, as well as by tracks and trails of wormlike creatures
in other
rocks. Initially, in a generalized outline of the Precambrian history
of the
region, the Vishnu Schist was upraised, folded, and metamorphosed and
then
slowly eroded and worn down to a flat surface. The Grand Canyon Series
was
deposited perhaps as part of a slowly subsiding geosynclinal trough.
The region
was then subjected to uplift and tilting, and a Precambrian period of
erosion
for the Grand Canyon Series began. This action was later followed by a
long
period of deposition during the Paleozoic Era (540 to 245 million years
ago)
and then further erosion during the Cenozoic Era (beginning 66.4
million years
ago) until the region assumed its modern configuration.
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